Bartender Andy

Next to eating, drinking is a favorite pastime of mine. It seemed only logical I should talk to a bartender and learn a little more about the thing that I love so dearly.

Meet Bartender Andy. He is a (most excellent and wonderfully nice) bartender at Eastern Standard (one of my all-time favorites) who used to work at the B-Side (yet another favorite). Andy let me have a glimpse of restaurant life and told me what bartenders drink, both before and after a hangover.

Thank you so very much, Andy, for taking the time to chat. It was great fun.


SND : How does one get a job as a bar tender? What’s the process?
BA : I get a lot of guests who ask me “Did you go to bar tending school?” No I didn’t. I think the best experience is bar backing. I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to bar back at the B-Side. People tell me they want to be a bar tender and they say “Oh I am going to bar tending school” and I say don’t do that, because people will laugh at you.

SND : Do you ever drink while on the shift?
BA : I have definitely had a drink while working before, but you don’t want to get drunk while you’re working. I mean, it’s not like Coyote Ugly. You figure out pretty quickly that you can’t get wasted all the time while you’re working. It’s not very productive.

SND : I would be an alcoholic if I worked at a bar.
BA : [Complete silence… guess it’s just me then.]

SND : Do you eye how much you’re pouring? How do you do it?
BA : Mostly we use jiggers, for consistency’s sake. If I make you a cosmo on a Monday and you come in on a Thursday and [someone else] makes it, it’s going to taste the same. Consistency is a big part of cocktails, an important part, definitely. If I had a bar I would definitely use jiggers… and no Bloody Mary’s past five o’clock. It’s my bartender pet peeve.

SND : Why is that you get a can get a regular Grey Goose martini, slightly dirty, and it tastes so good but you order it somewhere else and it tastes like ___. What is the difference?
BA : They probably out too much olive brine in, maybe they shake it and not stir it. You should always stir. One of the first things that Pat Sullivan, the owner of the B-Side, told me is that if it’s all liquor you stir it, if there is any juice or syrup in it you can shake it. Stirring the ice doesn’t let it melt as fast [as when you shake it], it doesn’t chip. If you ever get a shaken martini you will notice there is a layer of little ice chips at the top, which a lot of people are into and like.

SND : You don’t have Jager at Eastern Standard?
BA : No we have Fernet-Branca, Jagersmeister for grown ups. It’s an Italian digestif. If you go to a bar and they have Fernet-Branca, you know you are in a pretty decent bar. I think it’s the best thing to happen to alcohol since bourbon. It’s amazing. It’s a secret blend of over 100 herbs and bitters. Most digestifs, liquors and cordials are 35 - 40 proof, this one is 80. It’s an amazing blend of flavors and probably the best hangover cure I have ever found, and the best after dinner drink, ever. The first time I had it I thought it tasted horrible, but after two or three times you pick up all these subtle flavors in it like liquorish, mint, and tart berries. As far as staff drinks, it’s the most consumed drink at Eastern Standard.

Editorial note: I have tried Fernet-Branca. It may take me more than two or three tries to stop wishing for death immediately after swallowing it.

SND : Does it mess with your day to work so late at night? Are you completely nocturnal?
BA : Yea, pretty much. We work pretty long shifts, 3 or 4 till 3 or 4 in the morning. I think most people who work in restaurants are pretty nocturnal. It’s the nature of the beast. We all work a lot but it’s worth it. I don’t want to sound like a cliché but it is like a big family. It’s a massive staff and it’s a big place, it’s really intense, and it’s a lot of fun. It’s a restaurant job and anyone that has done it knows, there is a certain fraternity. You want to pull your hair out sometimes but the same time, some of the best moments I have had were working with people behind the bar or at a restaurant, or not even working, just hanging out with the people. You develop a certain bond. It’s a lot of fun.

SND : I really want to quit my job now.

Chef Josh

The following is the first of what I hope to be a series of interviews with Boston area chefs.

Meet Chef Josh. Chef Josh runs the kitchen at the Washington Square Tavern in Brookline, one of my favorite restaurants. The focus at the Tavern is on seasonal American bistro food and great wine. Josh has worked and trained at The Elephant Walk, Mistral, and the Federalist - a rather impressive roster. He was kind enough to take 40 minutes of his time to humor me and speak into my little voice recorder.

Thank you, Jonathan, for facilitating and chaperoning the interview. I am much obliged.
Thank you, Josh, for your time and patience. It was a fun afternoon. And long(ish) evening.

Here we go.

A: Do you yell?
Chef Josh: No.

A: Not a yeller?
CJ: No, not a yeller. Once, maybe twice a year.

A: Were you yelled at when you were training?
CJ: Yes, that’s why I don’t yell.

A: If you were to have your very own restaurant, what would it be like?
CJ: It would probably be similar to this place. Small, American bistro food, wine, beer. There would not be burgers on the menu.

A: You hate burgers?
CJ: I don’t actually hate burgers, I hate cooking them. I’ll eat them.

A: How do you come up with something new for the menu? What is the process? Do you make it at home a few times?
CJ: I usually spend the owner’s money and make it here [at the restaurant]. Usually specials - try it as a special, see how it works, what the feedback is, and go from there. Every dish is pretty much the same, meat/protein, vegetables, starch, sauce, done. Just different combinations of that.

Jonathan: Do you wish the menu changed more often?
CJ: No! I could not come up with ideas. Every two months is a lot. I’ve never worked any place else where the menu changes as much. There are like 8 seasons according to this place.

Veal marsala with truffled mushroom risotto and lemony arugula (my favorite thing on this menu, closely followed by the lamb lollipops).*

Jonathan: How often do they change the menu at Mistral?
CJ: Probably four times a year. Most places I worked, that’s what it was. Some things never change, like the burger. I don’t even have to cook those. It still bothers me. Last night a table of four, four adults, grown ups, came in for dinner. I am looking out, think “Oh they’re drinking wine, maybe they’ll get some fish.” Four burgers. And these people are like forty. Look, I’ll eat a burger too but if you go out on a Saturday night, splurge a little bit, you know, get a steak. You don’t need a sandwich. You can have that at home.

A: Grown-ups don’t eat sandwiches?
CJ: No, they do, but have you ever gone out with your parents and they say I’ll have aaaaa sandwich for dinner. [Me: Uuhh, no]. We get people that come in here [and say] “I love the food here. You do a great job… I get the burger every time.“ Huh? Wha? I’ll go get the guy who makes the burgers and you can tell him.

A: You didn’t go to culinary school, right?
CJ: No, I didn’t. I have just been doing this a long time, working in restaurants, delis. Started out washing dishes… sob story… without a dishwashing machine. I have done everything, which is nice because I wouldn’t ask any of these people that I work with to do anything that I haven’t done. Maybe that’s why I don’t yell. It’s pretty easy when you’re not washing dishes.

Seared tuna with pickled haricots verts (amazing) and wasabi mayo.*

A: So you learned all the techniques just through working?
CJ: I learned a lot at the Elephant Walk, a little at Mistral, a little at the Federalist. Learned a lot here just messing around with stuff. When you’re a line cook and you just show up and everything is done for you every day, your station is all set up, everything is cut up, all your sauces are done, and you just go, cook, and leave. It’s hard to pick things up that way. Yeah, I learned a lot… Learn something from everybody if you want to.

A: There is always a trendy food. Do you follow the food trends?
CJ: No, I don’t know. What’s trendy right now? Am I out of it? Am I in it? No, I don’t really care. I don’t follow it. I don’t ever plan on foaming anything unless it’s a latte. No foam, no tapas, whatever the next hot thing is.

A: What’s you wish list for next round of menus?
CJ: Foam, of course foam. I don’t want to say starch free, but I am sick of potatoes. Really light summer stuff. No more mashed potatoes, I don’t want roasted potatoes. I am kind of sick of starch so I hope they let me get away with some starch-less dishes, salad, green vegetables, light and clean.

A: What’s the one technique you go back to every time?
CJ: Searing seems to be the way. We have two stations. It’s either sauté or grill, so I would say searing is pretty constant, and then pan sauce is a pretty constant thing.

A: What won’t you ever eat, ever?

CJ: Swordfish. Ever.

A: Is it the bugs?
CJ: It’s the worms, it’s the way they fish it now. It’s no longer harpooned, it’s all long lined and the fish drowns. I don’t like it. I don’t like the meat, I don’t like to cut it, clean it, nothing about it appeals to me. [Face contorted with active disgust]. I think that’s the only thing I will never eat.

* Please forgive the crap photos. It's dark in the Tavern, as the name might suggest.


P.S. Lesson learned? Think twice about ordering a burger at a nice restaurant. The chef may take offense. Rightfully.

P.P.S. Interviewing people is hard! I have a new-found respect for Jay Leno. In the interest of, well, interest, I moved some stuff around in the interview, cut things out, nothing ethically or morally challenging, but just enough to make it readable. Bear with me, I hope to get better as I go along.